Hangang River from Yongbongjeong Park

One of the better photo points along the Hangang River is Yongbongjeong Park in Heukseok-dong.

Heukseok-dong is an older neiborhood built on a hillside on the south bank of the Hangang River, and if you’ve got time, it’s worth walking about. At the top of the hill is a small park with a wood observation deck providing good views of the Hangang River, Nodeul Island and Yeouido.

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The sun sets over Yeouido.

The 63 Building and the Hangang Railway Bridge… or Bridges, to be more precise, as there are actually four of ‘em, the oldest dating from 1900.

Linking the Yongsan neighborhood north of the Hangang River with Dongjak south of the river, the Hangang Bridge has served as Seoul’s gateway for nearly a century.

The Japanese began work on the bridge in 1916, completing construction in October of the following year. It is the oldest pedestrian and automobile bridge over the Hangang River (private cars did not appear in Korea until 1912).

Originally, the bridge consisted of two bridges: a larger span beginning from the south and a shorter span from the north. The two met at a sandbar in the middle of the river, which the Japanese created as an artificial island. Immediately, it became a Seoul landmark and popular tourist destination. In the summer, it was lit up with decorative lights, providing Seoul residents with a grand spot for summer evening walks. More importantly, the opening of traffic over the Hangang River encouraged the urbanization of areas south of the Hangang River, especially the industrial zone of Yeongdeungpo.

In 1925, a massive flood battered the bridge, causing heavy damage. By this time, it had grown obsolete and too small for the rapidly growing needs of the city. Construction of a new bridge began in 1934 at a cost of 2,518,000 won. The improved tied-arch bridge was completed in October 1937. This is the very bridge you see today. For decades, it was the only road into Seoul from the south.

Soon after the outbreak of the Korean War, the Hangang Bridge was demolished in a panic to stop the North Koreans from crossing the river. The demolition was a human and military disaster—the bridge may have had as many as 4,000 people on it when it was blown, many of whom were civilian refugees. It also led to the disintegration of much of the South Korean army, which was still fighting north of the river with the bulk of the army’s heavy weaponry.

In 1979, work got underway on a twin bridge next to the old one, and the new bridge opened in 1981.

Getting There

The park is not far from either Noryang or Heukseok stations, Line 9.


View Yongbongjeon Park in a larger map

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  • Edward Kim

    Rob, you’re getting good.

    • Robert Koehler

      I’m trying.

  • http://www.qiranger.com Steve Miller

    Love the first image!

    • Robert Koehler

      Thanks, sir.

  • Kevin Burge

    What an interesting coincidence. I was on the north side of the Han River yesterday (bike trail) where I read the granite stone memorial to the ROK and US engineering battalions who had to destroy the bridge and later rebuilt it as you described. No mention of the 4,000 who perished nor the soldiers who were cut-off. What a tragedy.

    • Robert Koehler

      No, you won’t read about it at the bridge. As far as I know, the monument at the bottom of the bridge is dedicated to the units who rebuilt it. Somebody recently wrote to Mayor Park suggesting he put a memorial on Nodeul Island, which seems like a good idea. In fact, there’s already a memorial on the island to a paratrooper who was killed while training nearby. If you’re going to memorialize that, you’ve got to put up a memorial to hundreds of civilians killed.

  • http://www.seoultrip.net/ Nate

    Seoul looks so great at night! The water next to the bridge on the right in the last pic almost doesn’t look real for some reason. These pics make me want to walk along the Han River again…

  • topadamornin

    Robert, what focal length do you usually take your photos at? These are some really great shots, and I’m hoping to achieve something similar in my photography. I’m looking at picking up either the Nikon 16-35mm or the 24-120mm, and your answer will probably affect which direction I go in. Thanks!

    • http://www.rjkoehler.com Robert Koehler

      A couple were shot at 28mm, one was shot at 18mm and another at 50mm. If you click the photos, it goes to the original photos I keep at Smugmug, where you can read the EXIF data.

      Anyway, my bread and butter lens is the Nikon 18—200mm. If I wanna go REALLY wide, I also carry a Sigma 10—20mm. I also carry the Nikon 50mm f/1.4, which I rarely use despite the fact that it produces by far the best images of any of my lenses.

      • topadamornin

        Thanks for the info!

        I just went full frame so I’m having to rework my collection of lenses and this helps out a lot. Looks like I’ll probably end up going with the Nikkor 16-35mm lens. There is a Tokina 17-35 that looks pretty nice, but I’m still not sure how much faith I can put into the third party lenses; the quality seems to be getting better and better (see the Sigma 24-70 f/2.8), but it looks like they can still be hit or miss.

        I only wish I had access to mountains so close to the city. You’ve been able to get some really amazing shots, lots of color and great composition!