Ihwa-dong’s picturesque ‘P-Turn’

Ihwa-dong P-turn, near Naksan Park, Seoul

Ihwa-dong P-turn, near Naksan Park, Seoul

I decided to do what Stuck in Customs does and got myself a SmugMug account. It eases up the burden on my server, it doesn’t degrade image quality the way WordPress does, and I love being able to blow the image up on wider screens. Still learning the ropes, but so far, I’m quite impressed with the service. If you’ve got a camera, check it out.

Anyway, I was browsing through Nightview—as I am wont to do—when I came across this spot in Ihwa-dong near Naksan Park. Strolling about Ihwa-dong is to return to an earlier epoch in Korean history. One of Seoul’s few remaining daldongne, the poor hillside villages that sprung up in the post-war era, Ihwa-dong is a claustrophobic neighborhood of narrow alleys and humble homes navigated by steep flights of stone and concrete steps that climb the slopes of Mt. Naksan, the peak that at one time marked the western eastern limits of Seoul. The age and what I will call the romantic decrepitude lends the place a certain aesthetic charm, which can see in the photos here. In 2006, public art experts and local residents teamed up to beautify the neighborhood still further with the Ihwa-dong Art Project, which brought some much-needed youthful spirit. From what I understand, however, the area was designated a redevelopment zone a couple of years ago, so I wouldn’t count on it remaining like it is for too much longer.

About halfway up the village there’s a “p-turn” that’s popular with nighttime photographers. Of course, there isn’t a whole lot of traffic up here, so you’ve got to do a bit of waiting, but the results are worth it. Bring your wide-angle lens. To get to the overlook, climb the steps leading to Naksan Park until you reach the “flower stairs” with the robot-like mural at the bottom. At the bottom of the steps, enter the alley to the right, follow it to the end and you’ll reach the spot. It took me some exploring and asking around to find it–hopefully, you won’t have to.

Getting There: Ihwa-dong’s entrance is a short walk from the Ihwa-dong Intersection, which in turn is not far from Exit 2, Hyehwa Station, Line 4.

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  • http://www.dayvmattt.com Dayv Mattt

    Amazing stuff, dude. I really like these pics. Quite stunning! I really should try and get out more at night. I've been such a homebody these past years.

    Be cool,

    Dayv

    • Robert Koehler

      Thanks as always, sir.

  • http://www.monster-island.net kushibo

    It's not quite San Francisco's Lombard Street, but it'll do.

    My then-girlfriend and I used to drive up to the hills of Ihwa-dong which had a nice lookout over the city and make out. Mostly what I remember was that parts of Ihwa-dong were really run down — utilitarian Soviet-style apartment blocks that looked like computer graphics-rendered buildings from Life After People. Haven't been up there for a few years, though.

    • Robert Koehler

      Yes, I've found nothing puts a lady in the mood better than urban decay.

      • http://www.monster-island.net kushibo

        She also enjoyed zombie movies.

  • http://www.san-shin.org Sanshinseon

    > Mt. Naksan, the peak that at one time marked the western limits of Seoul.

    Eastern, Robert…

  • hardyandtiny

    thanks for the link to smugmug

  • red sparrow

    Went to the spot and indeed there is not much in the way of traffic to get decent light trails. Mostly scooters. I think the only way is to go with a couple friends who have cars and get them to drive back and forth to create the illusion of traffic.

    • Robert Koehler

      That might work, too. Glad that you made it up there, though. Would love to see the photos.

  • dlbarch

    The first of these two photos is, hands down, my favorite of all your photo work.

    If you ever have a gallery showing of your photography, in Seoul or elsewhere, I ask only that (1) you let me know, (2) you include this photo, and (3) you make it available for sale!

    It really is quite extraordinary — as a truly complete and compelling composition.

    Cheers,
    DLB

    • http://www.rjkoehler.com Robert Koehler

      Why, thank you sir. And if in the future some poor gallery ever gets swindled into displaying my stuff, I’ll be sure to let you know!

      • dlbarch

        Cool. It’s funny how often, when one looks over an artist’s collection, one is drawn back again and again to a single work.

        Anyway, I guess I should also come clean and confess that I nicked your photo off your site and have been using it as the wallpaper on my computer screen at work for the last few months. (Yes, dude, it’s THAT good!)

        I’m not sure how many digital copyright laws I may have violated in the process, but now my conscience is clear!

        Cheers,
        DLB