From the Rooftops

For the first time in, well, almost as long as I can remember, we had sunshine today.

To commemorate this glorious event, I ran over to Myeong-dong during my lunch hour to shoot some shots of the neighborhood from the roof garden of the UNESCO Building.

(Be sure to click on the photos to get the full-sized, 1,200px versions)

As it would turn out, the roof garden appears to be closed, although by a stroke of luck, I found somebody who was kind enough to open it up. At one time, the garden must have been quite nice, but it’s doesn’t appear to have been maintained in a while.

Why, I don’t know.

Oh, and for those architecture nerds out there, the UNESCO Building was completed in 1968, and Seoul has been keen to designate it a modern cultural property.

I don’t have a graduated filter, but I tried — not particularly satisfactorily, I admit — to mimic the effect using a bit of zonemapping using LightZone.

Meh… perhaps I should just buy the f*ing filter.

And yes, I shot the two photos above in RAW (or NEF, as it were) and post-processed them in LightZone, a Lightroom clone for Linux. I’m quite clueless as far as post-processing goes — I mostly shoot jpgs or TIFFs and process them with Picasa, and by “process,” I mean hitting “I’m feeling lucky.”

Yep, it’s Myeong-dong Cathedral, along with the two very important axillary structures off to its side. The one on the left is the former bishop’s residence — built in 1890, it is the oldest surviving Western-style building in Korea.

How much longer you’ll be able to see this view, I don’t know, as the Archdiocese of Seoul is planning to construct some high-rise offices right next to the old auxiliary buildings as part of a controversial plan to redevelop the cathedral area. On a related note, I attended a debate not long ago on the redevelopment plan for the cathedral, and one of the presenters proposed the rather interesting idea of submitting Myeong-dong Cathedral and some other Catholic sites around the country for registry with UNESCO. This is, in fact, what Japan has done with Nagasaki’s Catholic sites. Given the unique history of Catholicism in Korea and the importance of Christianity in modern Korea, I think it would be great if the Ministry of Culture pushed such a plan, either for the Catholic sites alone or together with Korea’s historic Anglican and Protestant churches.

PS: As hard is it may be to believe by looking at these photographs, there was a time that Myeongdong Cathedral was the tallest structure in the city.

The eye-catching building in the lower-left corner is Myeongdong Theater, formerly the National Theater of Korea and, before that, a movie theater during the Japanese colonial era.

From this view, we can see why Seoul wants to improve the aesthetic quality of its rooftops — there’s a lot of clutter up there.

After work, I headed with the camera for an officetel a short walk along the Cheonggyecheon from the Samil Building. There’s a rooftop garden that’s open to anyone, with good views of the Cheonggyecheon and Jongno.

The sunset was pretty magical today, producing a beautiful orange—purple halo silhouetting the mountains surrounding downtown Seoul.

And for the architecture nerds, the YMCA Building, completed in 1968, is one of Seoul’s most important pieces of 1960s architecture, and probably on somebody’s short list for registration with the Cultural Heritage Administration.

I knew I bought that 50mm lens for a reason…

The brick church in the lower left corner is Seung Dong Presbyterian Church (1914). It was probably the biggest building in the neighborhood for quite some time after it was built. Now it’s well hidden in an alley off Insa-dong’s main drag.

And the Cheonggyecheon still flows…

Like I said, the dusk sky was amazing tonight. Surreal, actually. Well, with all the rain, I guess we were owed a decent evening for a change.

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  • http://globalasianculture.com Liz Shim

    Nice job, Robert! I love that you captured the sunset and an uber-dramatic sky as evening descended upon Seoul. Fighting!

    • Robert Koehler

      Let me tell you, that sky was uber-welcome, too, as it's the first night sky we've seen in ages!

  • http://www.flashparker.wordpress.com Flash Parker

    That top frame is gorgeous, Robert! I dig it without the tonemapping, etc. I think it has a ton of great depth.

    I can never get enough of these high-vantage frames and really think these have some great character.

    • Robert Koehler

      Thanks. I thought I'd give tonemapping a try, as I see a lot of folk at this online photo community I've joined posting these wonderful shots with dramatic skies, so I figure I'd try it. Not my cup of tea.

      High-vantage shots are fun, but it's not always easy to find buildings that will let you up top to shoot.

  • Mark

    If I saw the sky like that here in California I would get the umbrella out…wait, I don't own an umbrella.

    • Robert Koehler

      Yeah, well, we've had plenty of need for umbrellas here. unfortunately…

  • http://www.monster-island.net kushibo

    I like what they did with the Myŏngdong Theater. I'm glad it managed to escape the wrecking ball during its years as a bank when there may have been a strong incentive to knock it down and build something that would command greater rents.

    It reminds me of the Hearst Tower a bit, though hopefully without all the gutting of the inside.

    Construction began on the Hearst Tower addition in 2003. Do you suppose one inspired the other with the new-coming-out-of-the-old design? I remember reading about the plans to renovate the Myŏngdong Theater, but I can't recall what year that would have been.

    • Robert Koehler

      I suppose it's possible one inspired the other.

      And you're right — it's amazing the thing wasn't torn down like the historic theaters in Chungmu-ro.

  • GL

    I think you must shoot in RAW. Do you use Adobe Lightroom to develop your picture ?

    For the 'sky' for better result you could use the LAB mode rather than the RVB mode !

    • Robert Koehler

      I think you must shoot in RAW.

      So everybody tells me. I agree, but post-processing is a bit intimidating for me.

      And I don't use Lightroom, as I use a Linux machine. If I ever get a Mac, it'll be one of the first pieces of software I get.

  • Vonjackass

    The dusk / night shots are great. I left Seoul about 2 years ago after living there for 11-12 years, and I must say, those pics bring on a lot of good memories. There is a definite energy to Seoul that I miss, and you have captured it well.

    • Robert Koehler

      You're right — if there's something Seoul's got plenty of, it's energy, and at all hours, day and night.

  • http://www.sjkim.kr Sungjin Kim

    Magnificent night shot!

    Especially, I like the last one the most.

    • http://www.hermithideaways.com G

      Agreed. That last shot's pretty darn sweet.

      • Robert Koehler

        And I almost missed it — I was packing up, thinking the best had passed. Then I look over and was like, "wow." Guess it's always best to wait.

  • hardyandtiny

    where exactly is the officetel rooftop?

    • Robert Koehler

      It's a short walk up the stream towards Cheonggyecheon Plaza from the Samil Building. There's a GS Mart on the bottom floor. Go into the officetel lobby, take the elevator to the 15th floor, and use the stairs to head up to the roof.

      http://www.dcmcafe.co.kr/bbs/board.php?bo_table=d

      • hardyandtiny

        Thanks!

  • Lego Head

    My favorite is also the last one, the moody color in the clouds vs the bright city lights.

    Glad to see the exif data in the large pics.

    • Robert Koehler

      I'd still like to find a plugin that shows the Exif data on the actual page, though.

  • jacoba

    A really enjoy all the info you have about Seoul's architecture and usually agree with you regarding what's worth saving but the YMCA building? I always thought of it as a particularly ugly.

    I wish the city would put in a massive plan to remake all the cities flat roofs into garden rooftops. It would be both esthetically pleasing and help cool down the city in the summer.

    • Robert Koehler

      As far as buildings from that period go, the YMCA isn't so bad. It's sort of international style, which is boring, but at least it's not a complete eye-sore. Much uglier stuff got built during the 60s and 70s.

      And I agree wholeheartedly about the roof gardens. The problem is, it's been trying to do just that, but it's running into problems:

      http://ccej.or.kr/ISSUE/collect_view.html?idx=107

  • http://www.chiamattt.com Chiamattt

    These are, quite frankly, amazing photos. :)

  • Jeff

    Nice! I'm looking forward to seeing the changes in Gang-buk when I visit again next year.

    • Robert Koehler

      There's lots of construction and redevelopment going on, so now doubt much will be different when you come back.

  • Sewing

    Great shots, and a beautiful sky!

    I love the old downtown Seoul "within the gates" much more than Gangnam, and these photos sure take in a lot of it!

    One is reminded of the old panoramas of downtown Seoul you occasionally see, taken from Namsam…Namsan Mountain…Mount N Seoul, or whatever it's called now.

    And funny to see the unlit Jonggak just barely visible, tucked away in at the bottom of the photos of Jongno Negeori.

    • Robert Koehler

      It's hard to imagine now that Jonggak used to be one of the biggest buildings in Seoul.

  • http://seoulvillage.blogspot.com Stephane Mot

    Now I understand better Myeongdong Theater's renovation – quite twisted from the inside.

    Thanks for the views. Always a pleasure to enjoy new angles, and as the city grows up, the best spots remain rooftops or mountain tops. But Jongno is getting more crowded with high rise buildings and it's getting more and more difficult to get the big picture.

    Speaking of which : I also like this giant then and now 1920s – 2000s panorama at the Seoul Museum of History (http://twitpic.com/566tsg ).

    • Robert Koehler

      That's an absolutely amazing panorama. Really shows you how much the city has changed.

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