Food Porn: A Little Summer’s Boyangsik

Here’s a bit of food porn to help you pass another rainy day.

Ssarijip (싸리집): The Other Red Meat

Earlier this week, a Korean-American friend of mine was in town and was in the mood for a particular dish, so we headed out to Gugi-dong, a quiet neighborhood in the hills north of downtown, to have lunch at one of my favorite eateries, Ssarijip.

Ssarijip specializes in boyangsik. Boyangsik (“food that invigorates the body”) are high-energy foods traditionally eaten during the oppressively hot days of summer. The Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) has a list of some common boyangsik dishes at its website.

Ssarijip, however, specializes in the boyangsik NOT included on the KTO’s list.

I have no desire to get into the debate surrounding dog meat — thekorean at Ask a Korean! has already said pretty much everything I’d want to say on the matter.

Ssarijip has been around for 25 years, cooking its dog meat in big, cast iron pots in the traditional manner. In terms of atmosphere, you couldn’t ask for more — the Korean-style rooms surround a wonderful little courtyard, while the windows look out upon greenery and the restaurant’s clay pot collection. It’s spotlessly clean and well-appointed in the modest, rustic Korean sort of way.

We ordered the jeongol, a hearty stew of dog meat and vegetables served in a spicy gravy. Ssarijip is also famous for its suyuk — meat steamed and served in a small, cast iron pot, which you can see here. At 28,000 won per serving, the jeongol is a tad expensive, but it’s oh-so-good.

After the meat is consumed, you fry up rice and kimchi in the remaining stew — there is no better way to finish off a good meal.

Traditionally, dog meat is most often consumed on the bongnal, three days that mark the hottest period of the summer. In 2011, those would by July 14 (today), July 24 and August 13. If you’re planning to come here on those days, be sure to make a reservation first.

More Info

T. (02) 379-9911
Getting There: Take bus 0212 or 7022 from Exit 3 of Gyeongbokgung Station, Line 3 and get off at Gugi-dong stop.

Ho Ho Bunsik (호호분식)

My wife stopped by the office a couple of evenings ago and was in the mood for tteokbokki, so we had dinner at nearby Ho Ho Bunsik. Ho Ho Bunsik, like Ramyeon Ttaengineun Nal just across the street, is an older Samcheong-dong/Bukchon bunsik eatery that used to cater to the nearby schools but now entertains a much more diverse clientèle as young folk from outside the neighborhood flock here on weekends. Ho Ho Bunsik’s specialty is haemul tteokbokki — pan-fried rice cakes mixed with veggies, noodles and seafood. We ordered the modeumi tteokbokki (12,000 won for two), consisting of rice cakes, seafood (including mussels), a bit of meat and even cheese.

Again, after the meal was over, rice and kimchi was fried in the gravy.

It’s a friendly, popular place and a great way to fill up on the cheap. The shop was recently renovated, too, so if cleanliness is a concern of yours (it’s not for me, frankly), it’s pretty nice now.

More Info

T. (02) 732-7768
Getting There: It’s in the alley just in front of Jeongdok Public Library, not far from Exit 1, Anguk Station, Line 3.