This is how I spent my Chuseok.
A couple of weeks ago, I was reading a story — can’t quite remember how I came about it — that mentioned the outhouse of a Buddhist temple in Yeongwol-gun, Gangwon-do that was designated a cultural property.
Needless to say, this stuck in my head. How many bathrooms in the world have been designated cultural properties? How many people can claim to have used a bathroom designated a cultural property? The fact that said outhouse was in the middle of nowhere — and Yeongwol, beautiful it maybe, certainly qualifies as “the middle of nowhere” — simply added to its stranglehold on my imagination.
I must see it, I decided.
So, on Chuseok (Saturday), I boarded an intercity bus for Yeongwol at DongSeoul Terminal. A mere two and a half hours later (thanks to recent highway construction), I was in the promised land. My ultimate destination, the small Buddhist temple of Bodeoksa, lay just outside of town — almost walking distance, or a short taxi ride.
The outhouse — temple outhouses are called haeuso, or “place to relieve your distress” — was built in the 19th year of King Gojong, or the Year of Our Lord Eighteen Hundred and Eighty Two, and has been designated Gangwon-do Cultural Property Material No. 132. Amazingly, it has preserved almost perfectly in its original condition. It is divided into male and female halves, and the waste drops into below into a large room which is cleaned by the monks regularly. Twelve people can use the facility simultaneously. For a 127-year-old shitter, it doesn’t smell half as bad as you’d expect, but a word of warning — BRING YOUR OWN TOILET PAPER.
The temple — founded in 668 — is also home to a very nice Geungnakbojeon Hall (Nirvana Hall), which was built in the Joseon era but preserves the architectural style of the early Goryeo period. Or so they say. It’s surrounded by beautiful forests — actually, all of Yeongwol is surrounded by beautiful forests — and has a lovely lotus pond out front.
Right next door to the temple, as it would turn out, is Jangneung, the tomb of King Danjong, who was overthrown, sent into exile and soon thereafter murdered by his uncle, the eventual King Sejo. Apparently, this place is absolutely beautiful when the trees turn color, so this weekend or next would probably be an ideal time to visit.
If you do visit Yeongwol — and by all means, do so — remember that the town is best known for the Donggang River, one of Korea’s best trekking and rafting areas.
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Great shots.
I still think you should have called this:
“What a shithole!”
That’s a wonderful place… Bodeok-sa has a great Sanshin-gak too, with its iconic painting of Danjong-off-to-become-Taebaek-sanshin, which has become one of the symbols of the county — a unique case!
Good Chuseok choice and great photos, Robert — Yeongwol-gun is incredibly beautiful, always a worthwhile visit…
Gorgeous photos, Mr. Marmot.
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