Memorial to Sungnyemun Gate

by Robert Koehler on February 11, 2008

in Korean Culture, Photos of Korea

These are the photos I’ve shot of Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate. The day shots, BTW, were taken only last week.

The Sungnyemun Gate, to me, represented what was most beautiful in Seoul — perhaps better than anywhere else, you could feel here the dynamic contrast between old and new that makes Seoul such an interesting place to live. The old gate had managed to survive the Imjin War, the colonial period, the Korean War and Korea’s post-war economic development. It was the closest thing Korea had to a national icon.

Yes, the gate will be rebuilt to original form. Yes, very little original wood probably remained from its 1396 construction (or its 1479 restoration). Yes, one hopes — and “hopes” is the operative word — that this will lead to improvements in fire-protection methods for Korea’s old wooden structures. Still, one cannot help but feel a profound sense of loss.

Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate

Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate

Facade, Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate

Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate

Sungnyemun Plaza

Sungnyemun Gate

Sungnyemun Gate

Sungnyemun Gate

{ 9 trackbacks }

SeoulLife.net » Before the fire
February 11, 2008 at 2:11 pm
610 Year Old Korean Landmark Destroyed at ROK Drop
February 11, 2008 at 3:14 pm
Photos of the ruined Namdaemun Gate (남대문 숭례문) « Church of the Sacred Teddy Bear - Korean Branch
February 11, 2008 at 6:51 pm
Namdaemun (남대문) Haiku « Church of the Sacred Teddy Bear
February 11, 2008 at 7:13 pm
Korea’s #1 National Treasure Burns « The Daily Transit
February 11, 2008 at 11:18 pm
Goodbye, Namdaemun. at joshua.treviño.at
February 12, 2008 at 4:58 am
Left Flank
February 12, 2008 at 10:29 am
Curator & Collector » South Korean “National Treasure 1″ Sungnyemun / Namdaemun Gate Torched
February 12, 2008 at 2:53 pm
Saving Korea’s Treasures in Times of War | The Marmot's Hole
June 6, 2008 at 2:54 am

{ 31 comments… read them below or add one }

1 wjk February 11, 2008 at 1:05 pm

you rock.

2 david w. February 11, 2008 at 1:24 pm

Awesome photos Robert. If you don’t mind me asking, what kind of camera (Nikon D40X?) and lenses are you using?

Namdaemun was one of the first things I saw when I came to Korea three and a half years ago and I’ll have fond memories of it for years to come.

3 Robert Koehler February 11, 2008 at 1:30 pm

For the day shots (and the first night shot), I used my D40x with the kit lens. The other night shots I took with my old Canon PowerShot SD700 IS.

Anyway, we’ll all have fond memories of the gate for years to come. Here’s to hoping the reconstruction survives as long as the original.

4 The Goat February 11, 2008 at 1:47 pm

Horrible event :(

5 Mondoo February 11, 2008 at 1:53 pm

Wow, this saddens me greatly. For me this was quite easily the most impressive structure and historical landmark that i’ve seen in korea.

Truly a national tragedy.

6 GI Korea February 11, 2008 at 3:16 pm

Robert great pics, especially the night shots. It is sad to think it going to be three years before we can see the gate again. Really a tragedy and a loss of national icon for Korea.

7 Benicio74 February 11, 2008 at 3:34 pm

I too felt the same pangs, sort of like when I was watching the WTC twin towers fall.
Yes, I know they are completely different situations, but you just have this surreal feeling of like “No, it can’t be happening!”.
I guess it sounds weird.
I know they will rebuild it and it will be great again.
Really, I liked that they made it accessible. You could actually go up to it. Not like when I first saw it in ‘97.
I hope the rebuilt one will be accessible, too. Albeit with more security!
Great pictures!

8 Robert Koehler February 11, 2008 at 3:43 pm

I too felt the same pangs, sort of like when I was watching the WTC twin towers fall.
Yes, I know they are completely different situations, but you just have this surreal feeling of like “No, it can’t be happening!”.
I guess it sounds weird.

It’s OK — I felt exactly the same way. Not that I’m likening the burning of Sungnyemun to an act of mass murder, of course, but the surreal feeling was eerily similar. As one of our cobloggers posted in another forum, it’d be like watching the Statue of Liberty fall into the sea.

As for the decision to make the gate accessible to the general public, I really liked that decision, and I still do. Honestly, I really appreciated the effort made by the Cultural Heritage Agency to return the nation’s cultural treasures to the people. It’s just a shame that the agency has to get burned — no pun intended — like this because of the call.

9 JiMong February 11, 2008 at 3:54 pm

Many thanks, Robert.

10 drewjube February 11, 2008 at 5:27 pm

A very sad day, indeed. I regret that I never took the time to visit the Gate once it was opened to the public.

11 MrMao February 11, 2008 at 6:05 pm

Well, I will definitely check out the doume girls when it has its Grand Open.

12 Songtan1 February 11, 2008 at 10:05 pm

#11…MrMao. Your “BAD”.. You are sick…

13 tomcoyner February 11, 2008 at 10:07 pm

After getting over the shock and more than a bit of grief in seeing the gate burn, I can think of some potential good. First, if nothing else, this may at last act as a catalyst for the Government to install fire sprinklers in other wooden architectural treasures.

Second,during the 60’s forward until very recent times, renovation of architectural monuments has too often resulting in corrupting many of the original architectural principles out of the sake of expediency, cost-cutting and ignorance. As a result, often renovated old buildings have ended up looking like something that Walt Disney’s team may have constructed after taking a weekend cram course on Korean architecture.

Now, Sungryemun was not that bad, but I suspect this forced, yet one more renovation may give the City another chance to get it right — and perhaps more so than what the did in 1962 and 2005.

And finally, if in the end, we discover the cause of the fire was by either the deranged and/or homeless, this may be cause this society to pay greater attention to these people’s needs. This is the sort of ailment one cannot simply sweep under the carpet and not expect to pay a price of unexpected proportions later on.

We can only hope some lasting good may come out of this.

14 The_William_G February 11, 2008 at 10:16 pm

Well, I will definitely check out the doume girls when it has its Grand Open.

While I have been feeling sad all day about what happened, since the gate has been a constant backdrop to my life here, this did make me laugh out loud.

Good one.

15 Konglick February 11, 2008 at 10:41 pm

“As a result, often renovated old buildings have ended up looking like something that Walt Disney’s team may have constructed after taking a weekend cram course on Korean architecture.”

The massive blocks always looked out of place to me next to the remaining original bricks of the fortress. Sadly, similar massive blocks were used during many renovations around peninsula.

16 NewYorkTom February 12, 2008 at 1:24 am

Awesome photos man. I never really thought about NDM in this light but it makes me sad to think that something we take it for granted can vanish so fast…

On the other hand, I read somewhere it’ll cost $21 million dollars to rebuild over 3 years. I am assuming the budget will go well over as is with all other constructions, especially government subsidized ones. As much as NDM is very important as a cultural icon, I dont know about spending that kind of money to rebuild something on a piece of prime real estate…especially when the economy is so bad there.

I know there will be no way that the Korean govt will not rebuild on the same site but still, I gotta pause and think what other positive things could be done with the money and the land besides holding onto the past with nostalgia…

17 Anon February 12, 2008 at 3:34 am

There’s rumors it’s a japanese who light it up — February 11th is National day in Japan. Let’s hope this isn’t true.

18 user-81 February 12, 2008 at 5:48 am

“And finally, if in the end, we discover the cause of the fire was by either the deranged and/or homeless, this may be cause this society to pay greater attention to these people’s needs. This is the sort of ailment one cannot simply sweep under the carpet and not expect to pay a price of unexpected proportions later on.”

It will be swept under the rug and eventually forgotten. Even a homeless man in that area killing a subway passenger by pushing her onto the tracks was not enough to make the government do anything.

And if they do something, it will likely be moving them somewhere else, out of sight and out of mind.

19 user-81 February 12, 2008 at 5:50 am

#16, I think you’re right. Everyone knows that what Seoul needs is another high rise. I’m sure everyone in the capital will go for that.

#17, Good job at starting that rumor.

20 kimcity3000 February 12, 2008 at 6:13 am

#17,
The monument is gone but the Koreans stay the same…(sigh)

21 NewYorkTom February 12, 2008 at 8:02 am

#19 user-81
I sense very strong sarcasm there but I’m not necessarily saying we need another high-rise where NDM used to be. But do we HAVE to rebuild another NDM?

Just like does NYC need another WTC? I think not. For instance, rebuilding of WTC is a sort of a “fuck you” to the terrorists but at the same time I think the arrogance that goes along with building it and not thinking it’s susceptible to another attack is foolish. Of course we have to go along with our lives but to make it obligatory to build the same/similar structure just to spite the enemy is stupid to me.

Not exactly the same situation with NDM…I realize that. But like I said, do we need a “fake” NDM to remind us that we used to have a damn gate there? I also realize that it’s beautiful to blend old and new but once the old burns down, come on… maybe even build another landmark that’s not an eye sore but still has a utility purpose? I dont know what the answer is…

All I’m saying is, we dont need to remake everything every time it gets destroyed. Maybe we could think of other options before we hastily decide to build an exact replica, as we all know won’t just be the same. And dont spend $21 million and pull some shit like we will all lose face as a nation if we dont build the same shit all over again. I think that’s pathetic.

22 MigukNamja February 12, 2008 at 10:58 am

NewYorkTom,

How long, exactly, have you spent in Korea ?

23 MF February 12, 2008 at 11:31 am

# 17, why do you post such a useless rumour at a time like this? This morning, the press is already reporting that it was a Korean man, who has admitted to the crime. He did a similar thing a few years ago. This is a sad moment for Korea, and not a time to spread rumours.

24 orchid February 12, 2008 at 11:37 am

Thanks for the beautiful photos Robert. We thought of visiting Seoul soon and the Namdaemun Gate is certainly a spot to visit. But i am so saddened to hear about the news of the burning. I read that it takes 3 years to restore the gate. :-(

25 Sonagi February 12, 2008 at 11:58 am

Not exactly the same situation with NDM…I realize that. But like I said, do we need a “fake” NDM to remind us that we used to have a damn gate there? I also realize that it’s beautiful to blend old and new but once the old burns down, come on… maybe even build another landmark that’s not an eye sore but still has a utility purpose?

If the Koreans had adopted that attitude a long time ago, there’d be very few architectural relics remaining, for wood is not durable like stone.

26 dda February 12, 2008 at 12:45 pm

And what did I say, oh, a million times, here and in private, about publishing a photo book?

27 Baltimoron February 12, 2008 at 3:11 pm

I take this incident more for a law enforcement problem than a cultural one. When someone wants to turn Manassas Battlefield Park into houses or a theme park, I’m not all that concerned, even though I love the place. If South Gate has outlived its usefulness, then why stand in the way of progress?

But, more importantly, why did the police let off this vandal the first time? And, where were the police when he was doing this act? I’m more concerned for the safety of my house, then for history. If some wacko decides to torch my neighborhood, not once but twice, I’m not going to sue him (he’s insane). I’m suing the police!

28 cinemagauche February 12, 2008 at 11:56 pm

So what’s the big deal? A lot of beautiful buildings have shamelessly disappeared over the years – and not from fire. I hope they build a nice officetel in its place. They can call it Namdaetel or Sungnyetel…

29 NewYorkTom February 13, 2008 at 4:28 am

Miguknamja

I spent almost twenty years of my life in Korea (I’m 35). I’m not sure if you’re asking this question to decide whether or not I’m not qualified to give my opinion about NDM but if you are…whatever. Maybe I’m just jumping the gun there.

30 Jasmine February 13, 2008 at 11:54 pm

The stupid guy who burned it just said he is sorry… X( sorry?
I mean c’mon u destroyed a historical treasure, sorry is for 3 seconds of it. He should stay in prison 4 EVEEEEEEEER.
And yeah i read that he has done a simmilar thing to another palace. Well how could the government let go of this guy??
They should make him do all the labour for rebuilding it again..stupid bastard

31 Young Jin April 11, 2008 at 1:28 am

they are going to rebuild it… might as well make it out of legos or something because it no longer will have a historic purpose

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