I attended a colleague’s wedding in Busan on Saturday, so I figured while I was in the area, I’d pay a visit to one of my favorite ™ spots — the old Jinhae Post Office.
Jinhae is a pleasant little port town about 40 minutes by bus from Busan. The Japanese developed the town as a naval base during the colonial period, and a navy town it remains today — it’s home to Commander-in-Chief Republic of Korea Fleet (CINCROKFLT) and the Republic of Korea Naval Academy. Compared to other major ports on the South Sea coast such as Busan and Masan, Jinhae is quite small with a laid back feel. In spring it comes alive with its famous cherry blossom festival (the cherry trees, like the naval base, are a legacy from the colonial period), but fall is also a nice time to come, when the leaves start falling and the town is embraced by a romantic, almost exotic charm.
Jinhae Post Office
On the Jungwon Rotary — the old “downtown” before the City Hall moved elsewhere — is the old Jinhae Post Office, one of the most beautiful and best preserved examples of colonial era architecture in Korea. The post office was built in 1912 by the Japanese. The one-story wood building, built in Russian style, is crowned with copper-plated roof (restored in the 1980s; the Japanese removed replaced the original copper with zinc plating during World War II) that has turned a beautiful emerald to match the doors, windows and cute Japanese-style bulletin board.
The Russian style of the building suggests that the post office’s location may have been the spot of Jinhae’s old Russian consulate. At any rate, the building is a good example of the development of Western architecture in early 20th century Japan.
The building was used as the town’s central post office until the 1990s, when a new post office was built just next door. The old post office has been designated Historic Site No. 291; unfortunately, it’s permanently locked, so no photos of the inside. But, here are some still shots from the film “Classic,” in which the post office was used as a film set.
Black & White Teahouse
On the other side of the rotary is a two-story Japanese-style wood building that holds one of Jinhae’s hidden treasures, the Black & White Teahouse (Heukbaek Dabang).
The Black & White Teahouse is one of Korea’s few remaining “old-style” teahouses of the kind popular during Korea’s more rustic times. Painter Yu Taeng-nyeol opened the place in 1955 — the black and white interior was painted by Yu himself. Since it opened, many of Gyeongsangnam-do’s artists, including painter Lee Jung-seop and composer Yun I-sang, have visited the teahouse, composing poetry, holding exhibits and putting on performances. There’s a lot of history in this place, which exudes nothing but charm. A MUST VISIT anytime you’re in the area.
Yu passed away in 1999, and the teahouse is now run by his pianist daughter, Yu Gyeong-a, and her cousin, Bae Ae-ryeon (formerly with a provincial theatrical troupe). I didn’t meet Yu, but I did meet Bae, a very charming and informative lady who makes a mean cup of Korean traditional tea. The teahouse has a large collection of classical music recordings (for which it is famous), and holds regular musical and theatrical performances every Wednesday at 8:00pm. (055) 542-2257.
Don’t forget the Flickr slideshow.
8 Comments
Excellent photos. I’d really like to check the place out.
Nice pics as always, Robert. Hope you’re saving them all for that book.
nice pics. Looks like Flickr isn’t blocked in China anymore (or at least today)
Great pics and write-up, Robert.
Here’s a panorama shot over Jinhae’s old downtown (8571 x 1625, in my Flickr page). The hill (Jehwangsan) with a tower visible in Robert’s second pic is in the left end of the panorama, taken next from my mother-in-law’s doenjang jars. As can be seen from it, there’s quite little “development” in the sense of high-rise construction in that part of town, as the center has moved towards town. The place where the panorama is taken used to be a great location for a home earlier, but not any more. Jinhae doesn’t really feel like a seaside town, as the Navy occupies most of the seashore, and I’ve always had to drive a long way eastwards to even see any sea. It’s a navy town that lives towards the land.
I remember you last time wrote about dropping by in Jinhae around New Year. Too bad I didn’t know you were coming for I was there as well. Ok, next time.
You smoke? I don’t know why but that surprises me.
The Korean Naval base is also worth a visit when they open the gates to the public during the Cherry Blossom / Port Festival.
More of the older buildings on there that one can see from the road.
Great panorama shot Antti. Good hiking trails on top of the ridge line in the picture. One can hike from Jangbok Tunnel (just to the right of the big hill behind the clock tower) all away around down to the foot hills to the east of Jinhae.
Wow, I walked right past the Heukbaek Dabang—like right in front of it—a couple of years ago, and had no idea it was such a historic place.
Jinhae is a neat town. There are a couple of easy hikes from downtown, including to the tower/museum on Jehwangsan, as mentioned by Antti.
And it’s easier to get there by city bus from Masan, it seems, than by either train (just a couple a day, though nowadays they’re Samaeul trains all the way from Daegu or Dongdaegu) or long distance bus (not many buses go to Jinhae).