The Marmot’s Hole

If I were to make a list of the most beautiful places in Korea, Bongjeong-sa Temple would be one of the candidates for No. 1.

Legend has it the location of the temple was chosen by National Preceptor Uisang, one of Silla’s greatest monks, after a paper crane he let loose from Buseok-sa Temple (in nearby Yeongju) landed here. Records, on the other hand, suggest the temple was founded by a disciple of Uisang in 672.

Bongjeong-sa is not one of Korea’s largest temples, and it sure as hell isn’t one of its most visited. It is, however, one of its most architecturally significant, and its relative isolation, fabulous location and masterful use of space make it one of the most peaceful and spiritually enriching places in the country.

If you read this blog, live in Korea, and have yet to visit Bongjeong-sa, I implore you — visit this temple at the soonest possible opportunity. The end of September-early October, when Andong is in the midst of the International Mask Dance Festival and the trees begin turning color, would be a particularly good time to go.

Read on below for photo essay.

PS: Yes, Andy, I know you’d prefer it be broken up into smaller posts.

Myeongok-dae Pavilion

Bongjeong-sa is a 40-minute bus ride outside of downtown Andong. Not so long ago, almost nobody came here. Since Queen Elizabeth II visited the temple in 1999, however, it’s grown somewhat in popularity, and now you have to pay a small entrance fee (actually, a cultural property maintenance fee). That being said, there’s no tourist village, and there are relatively few tourists — if you’re in Andong, you’re probably going to Hahoe Village or Dosan Sowon, and Bongjeong-sa isn’t particularly close to either of them.

This, BTW, is a very good thing.

From where the bus drops you off, it’s a pleasant walk up to the temple. Along the way, there’s a small running brook to the left. Near the brook is a small pavilion called Myeongok-dae Pavilion, built in 1665 by the students of Andong’s very own Yi Hwang, one of Korea’s two greatest Confucian scholars. As a teenager, Yi had spent time at the temple, using the quiet and seclusion to study. As an older man, he came back to lecture students at the shady brook where he used to clear his head as a young man.

Iljulmun Gate

Just past the Myeongok-dae Pavilion is the Iljumun Gate (”One Pillar Gate”), which separates the earthly world and the world of the Buddha. The gate was built in 1900, making it one of the youngest buildings on the temple complex.

The Path to Enlightenment

Like Buseok-sa, with which Bongjeong-sa shares some common features, you approach the main courtyard of the temple via a stone staircase that passes some beautiful terrace work, and then enter under a large, two story pavilion, the lower story of which serves as an entry gate. As you pass through the gate, the Main Hall, or Daeungjeong, gradually comes into view.

Main Courtyard

Bongjeong-sa is really a tale of three courtyards — the “main” courtyard in front of the Daeungjeong, the smaller courtyard in front of the Nirvana Hall, or Geungnakjeon, and the courtyard of the nearby Yeongsan-am Hermitage.

The courtyard, or madang, is an important concept in Korean architecture. In fact, it may be the most important concept. Architect Seung Hyu-sang once wrote:

Like in Korean traditional music, which values more the space between the notes, and traditional painting, which values blank space, Korean traditional architecture considered the space between buildings more important than the buildings themselves. Because Korean architecture valued the architectural harmony of a collection of structures over a single structure, the madang — the empty space at the center of that collection — is the most important factor and concept in Korean traditional architecture.

As important as the empty space may be, in the case of Bongjeong-sa, the buildings are pretty important, too. The main courtyard, for instance, is home to the Daeungjeon, Treasure No. 55 and an outstanding example of early Joseon-era architecture, and the Hwaeom Gangdang, Treasure No. 448, built during the mid-Joseon era.

Manseru Pavilion

The second floor of the Manseru Pavilion houses the temple’s cowhide drum, wooden fish and metal gong used during the yebul (”Homage to the Buddha”). The first floor, meanwhile, is the entrance you passed through to get to the temple.

The pavilion, built during the reign of Sukjong (1674–1720), is unpainted, and sports the unprocessed timbers so typical of Korean architecture. It’s also blessed with a great view of the surrounding hillsides and forests.

Daeungjeong Hall

The Daeungjeon Hall houses the temple’s main Buddha icon, and is where monks and laypeople congregate for religious ceremonies. Bongjeong-sa’s Daeungjeon, designated Treasure No. 55, was constructed during the early Joseon era, and the paint job is original. From the Bongjeong-sa Temple page of Korea Temple.net:

Daeungjeon, the main sanctum of the temple, is believed to have been constructed in the early Joseon period (1392-1910). Though the windows and walls have been remodeled partially, the overall structure is basically of a typical early Joseon style, especially in the multi-cluster bracketing of the eaves which is characterized by simplicity and sturdiness. The same simplicity and sturdiness marks the style and details of the framework of the interior. The Dancheong coloring in the timber dates from the original construction and is of special artistic value because it shows the influence of earlier Goryeo (918-1392) motifs.

Unfortunately, I was unable to photograph the inside of the Main Hall.

Hwaeom Gangdang

Treasure No. 448, the Hwaeom Gangdang dates from the mid-Joseon era (1588, to be more precise), and is used as a study hall for the monks. It’s a bit odd looking, with a large roof bracket system supported by relatively short pillars.

Secondary Courtyard

The secondary courtyard, located behind the Hwaeom Gangdang, may be the more architecturally significant one, as it’s home to the Geungnakjeon Hall, the oldest wooden building in Korea.

Geungnakjeon Hall

Wood burns easily, which means wood architecture generally doesn’t fare well during invasions, civil unrest and plain old accidents. As a result, Korea has only a handful of wooden buildings dating back to the Goryeo era.

The Bongjeong-sa Geungnakjeon, or Nirvana Hall, is one of them. In fact, it’s the oldest wooden building in Korea, built in the 12th year of King Gongmin, or 1363.

Accordingly, it has been designated National Treasure No. 15

As you can see, it’s a relatively simple structure, and may represent an architectural style even older than the structure itself:

The hall, with three compartments on the front and four compartments at the sides, has a gabled roof shaped like a Chinese character of 人, the eaves of which are supported by column-head brackets. There is a door in the middle compartment on the front and there are windows on both sides. The inside of the hall, where the Buddhist image is placed, is decorated with colorful ornaments and carved ivy patterns like those in pottery of mid Goryeo Kingdom.

Though built during the Goryeo Kingdom, the hall reflects the influences of the architectural style of the earlier Unified Silla Period (668-935) and is reputed as the oldest wooden structure in Korea. Of special note are the inner frame of the hall and the simplicity of the bracket clusters.

I really dig the earth yellow color, which has been utilized to great effect throughout the temple (and at Buseok-sa).

The small stone pagoda, BTW, is also from the Goryeo era.

Gogeumdang Hall

The Gogeumdang Hall, designated Treasure No. 449, is yet another example of mid-Joseon era architecture, this one from 1616. It was built by the same woodworker who did the Hwaeom Gangdang, as you might be able to gather from a glance.

The building is now home to a hive of bees, as you can see in the second photo.

Hmmm… Peppers

Yep, it’s time to dry those peppers.

Yeongsan-am Hermitage

Compared to the main temple complex, the Yeongsan Hermitage is not particularly old, having been built (presumably) in the 19th century.

Few places in Korea, however, are as enchanting. This is Korean use of space at its finest. And yes, if you’ve seen the 1989 film “Why Has Bodhi-Dharma Left For The East?,” you’ve seen this hermitage before.

Like the main temple complex, you must pass under a pavilion to enter. The pavilion provides a nice open space linking inside and out.

It doesn’t take much to make a beautiful courtyard — a few rocks here, an old tree there, maybe a strategically placed stone lantern for decoration.

You can see how the buildings here connect to one another, with the madang playing a central role. And all are characterized by an understated natural beauty.

The small Eungjinjeon is used as an Arhat Hall. It’s not big, but its interior is exquisitely painted.

Nothing too flashy… everything just right.

One for Mr. Mason — a Samseonggak.

Hey, even monks need to do their laundry.

A beautiful gnarled old tree.

More superb coloring, this time on the head monk’s quarters. The fading only adds charm.

Be sure to check out the Flickr slideshow (to see all the photos in their original size)