The Marmot’s Hole

This is a post that is probably way overdue, given how I work in the lovely Bukchon area.

Bukchon: Traditional or Modern?

Bukchon — “North Village” — is the neighborhood of Seoul on the lower slopes of Mt. Bugaksan between the Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces. Owing to its location between the palaces and its outstanding natural scenery — the neighborhood overlooks downtown Seoul with Mt. Namsan forming something of a natural “folding screen” — it used to be the exclusive residential preserve of members of the Joseon royal family and high palace officials. Due to social and economic conditions in the latter part of the colonial period, however, more and more families began building homes in Bukchon, leading to the high concentration of hanok homes that we see today.

While there’s a tendency in the tourist literature to describe Bukchon as a “traditional” neighborhood, this is only partially true. Most of the homes date from the 1930s, and the construction methods (shorter roof eaves, maximum use of limited space, etc.) represent an important development in the development of Korean modern architecture — the urban hanok.

Nevertheless, thanks to its plethora of hanok homes and cozy alleyways, the area is a major tourist drawing card that Seoul Metropolitan Government has been keen to exploit. At the same time, tourist and commercial development and a government restoration project have brought their own problems. I don’t pretend to understand them all — neighborhood activist David Kilburn’s website can explain the issues much better than I ever could, and you’re highly advised to pay it a visit.

Choong Ang High School

Wait a second, that looks rather Gothic Revival for a hanok

Joong Ang High School was founded in 1908 by a group promoting Korean education, ostensibly for non-political reasons but more than likely to promote national development and national independence, which was under threat at the time. After the founding group was disbanded by the Japanese in 1910, it was taken over by the Young Korean Academy (a.k.a. the “Heungsadahn”), the San Francisco-based civic group founded by Korean independence activist Dosan Ahn Chang-ho. The school ran into management difficulties, however, and in 1915, it was bought out by none other than Kim Song-su.

Kim Song-su.

Educator. Journalist. Statesman. Father of Korean capitalism. Early proponent of liberal democracy in Korea.

And, depending on your particular point of view, big-time Japanese collaborator.

Anyway, Kim — who was born into a family of wealthy Jeollabuk-do landowners in 1891 — purchased Choong Ang High School in 1915, just after returning to Korea with a degree in political economy from Japan’s Waseda University. He founded the Dong-A Ilbo in 1920, and bought Korea University in 1932 (which, like Choong Ang High School, had been founded to promote Korean education, and like Choong Ang High School, had fallen into management difficulties). He spent the war years promoting the Japanese war effort (or so he is accused), but after Japan’s surrender, he ended up an adviser to the US Military Government in Korea. He eventually founded the Korea Democratic Party (the ancestor of today’s Democratic Party) and became Korea’s second vice president in 1951 before resigning the next year over President Syngman Rhee’s dictatorial tendencies (or because of a stroke). He died three years later in 1955.

A better understanding of the man can probably be learned from Choong Soon Kim’s A Korean Nationalist Entrepreneur: A Life History of Kim Songsu reviewed by Wayne Patterson here.

Anyway, back to the building. The Main Hall, commissioned by Kim and designed by one of the fathers of Korean modern architecture, Park Dong-jin, was completed in 1937. Those who have been to Korea University will no doubt notice the similarities — the Korea University main hall and library were designed by the same architect at the commission of the same man. As you can see, it’s a pretty Gothic style building — wouldn’t look completely out of place on a US university campus. I particularly dig the Tudor arch and the imposing castle-like tower. From the front door, you get a nice view of N Seoul Tower in the background.

The view once you pass through the arch, however, is even more spectacular.

This is the interior courtyard of the school. To the left and right are the West Hall and East Hall, built in 1921 and 1923, respectively.

If the architecture in the two halls looks familiar, it should — the buildings were designed by Japanese colonial architect Nakamura Yoshihei, who also designed the Cheondogyo Central Temple near Insadong.

Oh, and just in case you were wondering, yes, the school did appear in the hit Korean drama “Winter Sonata.” The school website even has the video footage. Accordingly, the school gets a fair share of Japanese tourists, and local store owners have taken note.

Bukchon — A Sea of Tile Roofs

If you haven’t spent a day wondering around Bukchon, you’re really doing yourself a disservice. I’ve worked in the neighborhood for close to two years now, and I never get tired of it.

Nearby Choong Ang High School, coincidentally, is the home of the Kim Song-su.

You’ll notice the history board doesn’t quite give the whole story:

The best view in all of Bukchon can probably be had from No. 11 Gahoe-dong, where you get the whole “sea of roof tiles” affect:

(1,200 px version here)

Oddly enough, however, you’ll find at the top of that hill a very Western-style structure. The Lee Jun-gu House, built in 1938, was typical of wealthy homes during the colonial period. It apparently has a real nice garden and the roof tiles were imported from France.

Like I said above, this concentration of hanok homes — it almost seems as if the eves of the homes touch — is very much a product of early 20th century urbanization.

Anyway, the photos will hopefully convey a little of the beauty and charm of the neighborhood.

Unhyeongung Yanggwan

The Neo-Baroque Unhyeongung Yanggwan (”Western-style Hall of the Unhyeongung Palace”) is one of the most beautiful examples of early modern architecture in Seoul. The imposing white building, set amidst a pleasant urban garden, was built in 1912 as the home of Yi Jun-yong, the grandson of Heungseon Daewongun. When he died, the building was taken over by Prince Yi Wu, who in turn was killed when the Americans dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima in 1945. It’s now an office belonging to Duksung Women’s University’s continuing education program.

BTW, just so there’s no confusion, this building is NOT in Bukchon — it’s hidden behind the Unhyeongung Palace, across the street from where Bukchon starts.

Also on the grounds — now used as a small store — is this building, which — and military folk, please correct me if necessary — appears to be Quonset hut:

Duksung Girls High School

Near my office. I’m pretty certain at least one of these buildings is from the pre-Liberation period. The school was founded in 1920, after all. Still, I’ve yet to find any architectural info about it.

Do Ga Hun

One of the more interesting buildings in the area is Do Ga Hun. The Russian-style red brick building is now used as the Gallery Hyundai, while the hanok home is, well, Do Ga Hun, a wine bar and Italian-French restaurant. I include this structure here for two reasons. Firstly, the brick building was built in the early 20th century apparently as a Won Buddhism temple, which is odd enough. Definitely doesn’t scream “Buddhist temple” at you, does it? Secondly, by providing info on an eatery, it allows me to satisfy what I shall call henceforth the “Bevers Rule,” whereas I shall provide not only photos, but also dining information so that readers can fully enjoy their day trip.

The Bus Stop

Anyway, as I was waiting to catch the bus back home to that armpit of the Han River valley otherwise known as Itaewon, I couldn’t help but notice this T-shirt of a fellow bus rider.

Stokely Carmichael would be proud.

Don’t forget to check out the Flickr slideshow here.