On Sunday, the wife and I went to lunch at Mingadaheon (Min’s Club), a fine eatery in Gyeongun-dong, just across from the Unhyeongung Palace.
Mingadaheon is right next to the Cheondogyo Central Temple, which I consider one of the biggest ironies in the Korean architecture world. The Korean religion of Cheondogyo has its roots in the nationalistic (some might say xenophobic) Donghak Peasant Rebellion of 1894. Cheondogyo adherants played a major role in the March 1, 1919 protests against Japanese colonial rule. Their nationalist “street cred” is such that the Chondoist Chongu Party is one of the few legally recognized political parties in North Korea. And the headquarters of this historic bastion of Korean nationalism is… a Western Art Nouveau structure designed by Seoul-based Japanese colonial architect Nakamura Yoshihei* and built by Chinese laborers.
The temple is rather impressive—when it was completed in 1921, it was considered one of the three greatest buildings in Seoul along with Myeongdong Cathedral and the Government-General Building. The temple was built in the Vienna Secession-style, an architectural form that now falls under the more general category of Art Nouveau. The roof, meanwhile, is Baroque, while the imposing decorated front portal reminds one of a Gothic cathedral:
Unlike most churches, which are shaped like a cross, the temple is shaped in a “T.” Not surprisingly, the building was designed to rival Myeongdong Cathedral—hence the powerfully built steeple.
Unfortunately, as the picture of the portal would suggest, it closed early the day I visited, so I couldn’t shoot pictures of the interior.
This is Mingadaheon. The hanok exterior belies the fact that the home was designed by Park Gil-ryong, the father of Korean modern architecture and the man behind the (since demolished) landmark Hwasin Department Store and the former main hall of Seoul National University (then Keijo Imperial University). While the exterior might be Korean—complete with Korean-style gardens and doldam walls, the interior decor is Victorian, and rooms are connected by long internal corridors. Built in the 1930s as the private residence of Min Ik-du, a descendant of Empress Myeongseong, the place resembles a turn-of-the-century social club for foreign imperialists diplomats. It was also one of the first Korean homes to be built with an indoor toilet and bathroom.
Mingadaheon may be an important cultural property and historical symbol of the first meeting of East and West, but it’s also a great place to eat. Like the building, the menu is all about fusion—but it’s fusion done well. The key, however, is the atmosphere—very conducive to a relaxing dining experience. Especially nice is sipping your coffee or sujeonggwa in the rear garden after your meal.
Since we were in the area, we strolled around Insadong afterwards—it seemed like everyone and his brother were there. I’m not a huge fan of Insadong—it’s a little too busy and a little too touristy for my tastes, but it is colorful. Anyway, snapped a couple of shots for fun:
Continuing our stroll, we headed for Jogyesa Temple. Just next to Jogyesa Temple, of course, is Korea’s first modern post office, which is perhaps more important because the celebration of its opening in 1884 served as occasion for Japanese-backed reformers to seize control of the government in a coup d’etat that lasted a whole three days before Chinese troops crushed it.
Anyway, Jogyesa Temple is preparing for the Buddha’s Birthday celebrations later this month, so it’s paper lantern galore.
Across the street from Jogyesa and a little up the street toward Jongno is the former office of the Joseon Jungang Ilbo newspaper (built in 1926), the editor of which was “Mongyang” Lyuh Woon-Hyung, the moderate leftist independence activist who set up the Korean People’s Republic, which “existed” for about 30 days from August to September 1945.
The republic was never recognized by the USAMGIK (which refused to recognize any group claiming to be the legitimate government of Korea), and Lyuh was rather spectacularly assassinated at the Hyehwa-dong Rotary on July 19, 1947. I could suggest a certain former Korean president was behind the hit, but that apparently gets you sued (albeit in a loosing effort) by said former president’s descendants.
It’s also been said Kim Doo-han, the, ahem, “former” gangster and, ahem, “independence activist” who was the hero in the Im Kwon-taek film “The General’s Son” and the popular TV drama “Yain Sidae,” played a role in the assassination. Well, I guess he needed something to do in between tossing pig piss all around the National Assembly (be sure to check out the photos at the OhMyNews link!) and trying to move copious amounts of Japanese opium (one of the most fascinating stories I’ve ever read).
Interestingly, the information marker in front of the building, which is now the Jongno branch of Nonghyeop, mistakenly says it was the office of the right-wing (and, at the time, arguably collaborationist) Chosun Ilbo.
* Some of the other buildings Mr. Nakamura apparently designed were the Bank of Chosen building in Gunsan and, oddly enough, Cheongju First Presbyterian Church in Cheongju.
UPDATE: Here’s a video I shot that day of a street pansori performance in Insadong:
[googlevideo]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2164123192064247828[/googlevideo]
Hope you liked it.
17 Comments
Wow, great photos and interesting history.
BTW how is it that “여” was ever transliterated as “Lyuh”?
One of your most fascinating photo essays yet—the architecture, garden, tantalizing food, and great historical tidbits.
Corpy Charly: the base spelling of the character is probably 려; from there, it’s possible to derive a totally idiosyncratic romanization like “Lyuh.”
As Sewing points out, prior to the adoption of revised Korean spellings in South Korea, 여 was spelled 려 (like the last name 임, which was spelled 림 and is often romanized as Lim). Lyuh was also a missionary-educated English speaker (he studied English lit at a university in Nanjing), and one would assume “Lyuh Woon-Hyung” was his preferred spelling.
Nonghyeop has a branch in Jongno!? It’s not like there are any farmers in the area—or do they do credit-union-type functions or the like?
It’s the Nonghyeop Credit Union, not the market.
Nice pictures, Robert. I try to eat at the Mingadaheon every time I am in Seoul too. It really is one of the better true Western eateries in Korea. And you are so right about the atmosphere of the place too–so much better than that found at the fancy hotels which I personally find rather bland.
I’ve been waiting for you to post photos of the Cheondogyo Central Temple. I saw a Korean documentary on TV about it a while back and was quite impressed. The documentary was right up your alley: Japanese Western-style architects in colonial Korea.
I have often walked by Mingadaheon but not tried it yet. I guess I should try this as well. Thank you for the nice interior pictures Robert.
Just a note: the architect behind the Cheondogyo Central Temple also designed the Bank of Chosen building in Dalian, China (one of the coolest cities I’ve ever visited)
Thank you Robert. I pass by the Nonghyup regularly and had wondered what had been there before. You’ve pointed out that many of the Catholic Cathedrals, and the Cheondogyo Central Temple too, were constructed by Chinese laborers. Is this because they were the only skilled brick layers around, or because they were cheaper than Koreans? Were the Chinese long time residents, or just brought in for the job? It sounds as if there was a sizable Chinese community here at the time. I wonder what happened to them after liberation - maybe off to Taiwan or the mainland? I wonder if there is much remaining (buildings,for instance) of the Chinese legacy on the peninsula.
I believe the Chinese were brought in to do the work because Korea at the time lacked the masonry skills required.
That being said, Korea did have a larger resident Chinese population back then. Many of the original Chinese left for the United States and Taiwan during the 60s and 70s at the “encouragement” of President Park Chung-hee.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but weren’t Korean women who married Chinese citizens still forced to give up their nationality just a few short years ago?
wow. thanks robert. as i work near the area, you explained many of my curiosities i had about the buildings mentioned in your post. thanks!
what’s the price range for min’s club? i’ve heard the food is not worth the price range. anyway, there seems to be lot of nice cars parked outside. at one point, due to my failing eyes, i saw the small sign as “men’s club” and seeing the nice cars parked outside, i assumed it was like some geisha-type house for businessmen when i first saw it two years ago.
as for insadong, why does the city allow cars during the weekdays???
I’ve heard that the Cheondogyo Central Temple has a lot of number-symbolism in its design, like those windows and the brickwork — reasons for every detail — does anybody know any of those?
Re: Chinese and bricks
I remember reading that early Nineteenth Century philosopher Jeong Yak-yong “Dasan” was condsidered a reformer for suggesting that foreign ideas, bricks from China among them, be allowed to enter the Hermit Kingdom. This might explain why Chinese masons were needed.
Another great posting with excellent photographs and the history. I always enjoy these and I learn so much from them….
I did, however, take some issue with the phrase “its roots in the nationalistic (some might say xenophobic) Donghak Peasant Rebellion of 1894.”
I went to the link you provided on the Donghak Peasant Rebellion and noted some seemingly glaring omissions. The Donghak Peasant Rebellion - from my reading - was partially based upon Western religious beliefs mixed up with native beliefs. The Rebellion was quite extensive but, especially in the beginning, was centered in the southern provinces…particularly Cholla. It is claimed to be anti-foreign in nature, but there are claims that Japanese members of the Amur Dragons or Black Dragons may have participated - assisting the Korean rebels. This was not the first nor the last time Japanese citizens took part in Korean internal politics and insurrections - Cheju in 1901 is another example.
This Donghak Rebellion is partly to blame (providing the excuse) for the Sino-Japanese war. I might add that despite Ms. Shaw’s claim that the Russo-Japanese war was the first incident of a sneak attack upon naval units by the Japanese - I feel that the attack upon the Chinese ships outside of Ansan prior to war being declared makes this the first.
Sorry for running on……
Great Pictures Robert…
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[...] “colonial” architect Nakamura Yoshihei (who, if you don’t remember, designed the Cheondogyo Central Temple and the East Hall and West Hall of Choong Ang High School), was built in two short years between [...]
[...] a more complete write-up on the temple, see this post from [...]