Continued from here.
The next day (i.e., Sunday), the wife and I were in the vicinity of Seoul Station, so I figured it might be nice to pop by Yakhyeon Catholic Church (now named Jungnimdong Catholic Church). The Cathedral of Chartres it might not be, but Yakhyeon Catholic Church is extremely important in that it was the first Western-style Catholic Church built in Korea.
This, of course, is not the church, but Seoul Station. Built in 1925, it was designed to resemble Tokyo Station, which itself was built to resemble Amsterdam Centraal. Go figure. Anyway, a short walk behind the station (over that nasty-ass overpass bridging the tracks) will bring you to the church, which sits on a hill overlooking Namdaemun:
Construction on the church began in 1891 and finished the following year. The church was built just outside the city walls, not far from where 44 Korean Catholics were executed earlier in the century. Overseeing construction was Father Eugene Coste Paris Foreign Missions Society, who also designed Incheon’s splendid Dapdong Cathedral (which was expanded in 1937 by the designer of Gamgok Church, Father Pierre Chizallet).
The church, which was completed six years ahead of Myeongdong Cathedral, is not entirely Gothic—it’s a mixture of Gothic and Romanesque—but it’s the Gothic part that counts, as it would serve as as model for other French-built churches in Korea (Gothic steeple, red and black brick, etc. ). In terms of Korean modern architecture, it’s a rare example of pre-1900 Western architecture that was taken directly from the West rather than through the Japanese.
Like just about everywhere else in Korea, it’s a pleasant place to visit in spring when the flowers are blooming.
One can only imagine what the view must have been like when the church was first built. At least the gate is still there.
Hey, look everybody—more pointed barrel vaults! Like I said, this is an interior style oft-repeated in other French-built churches. Well, I kind of dig it.
In 2005, a fire gutted the interior of the church (which I didn’t know when I visited). It has since been restored. As I was looking around, I couldn’t help but notice who did the design work on the stained glass—a brother with the Taize Community. Brother Marc—no, I don’t know him—apparently does a lot of stained glass work around Korea. The craftsmen, meanwhile, are an outfit based in Heyri Art Village in Paju, I was told.
7 Comments
Dear Mr. Koehler,
Thanks for the wonderful pictures! Refreshing, to say the least. I have enjoyed your posts on Japanese colonial architecture (stations, banks, etc.).
You had posted, earlier, about the Japanese buildings in and around Yongsan. With the planned destruction of much of Yongsan station area coming up, I am curious to know where those areas are. I’m quite familiar with the area.
Can you give me some landmarks from which to navigate from? I would like to see some of it before it’s torn down.
Thanks much.
Sean
I think most of the destruction is going to be of the red-hued nature.
It’s amazing how these buildings managed to survive some of the most turbulent times like the occupation and war.
You mention the Taize Community like you’re familiar with them. Have you ever visited them or anything like that?
That must be an interesting story, that a Protestant monastic community in France would contribute stained glass to a Catholic church in South Korea….
Robert, these are great pictures. Interesting commentary, too.
Sewing, the Taize community, while not officially RC, is very much a “small-c” Catholic movement.
foflappy—I’ll be happy to make a post about that. Actually, I may be visiting an old late-Joseon era building in Yongsan—the Gothic-style Yongsan Seminary and Wonhyoro Catholic Church—this weekend.
sewing—I don’t much about the movement, but I do see on occasion Sogang University professor Brother Anthony of Taize, who has done a lot of stuff with our company. Nicest guy.
D’oh, Brother Anthony—of course! I thought he was RC for some reason…isn’t Sogang Jesuit? Maybe that’s why.
2 Trackbacks
[...] « Good luck with that Yakhyeon Catholic Church [...]
[...] much more complete write-up on Yakhyeon Catholic Church can be found in this post from April. The church, built of red and black brick, was designed by French missionary Father [...]