In Search of Kim Swoo-geun

Kim Swoo-geun (1931-86) was one of the fathers of Korean modern architecture and probably Korea’s most internationally recognized architect. Before passing away at the young age of 55 from liver cancer, he had elevated architecture in Korea from a trade into an art form. He strove to take Korean traditional architectural ideas of space and environment and incorporate them into modern architecture. In many of his creations, space and structures flow together naturally as they do in traditional Korean architecture. In an interview with U.S. current events magazine TIME, he summed up his architectural philosophy thusly:

“My home is the womb. The womb’s home is the mother, the mother’s home is the house and the house’s home is the environment. It’s wrong to think of a home as just a residence. It’s the environment. The environment becomes space philosophically, and space is the home of the home’s home.”

His legacy lives on with the SPACE Group, the architectural firm he founded in 1960.

Kim designed some 70 buildings in Korea, including Olympic Stadium, Jinju National Museum and the Arko Arts Center in Daehangno. I spent the last couple of days snapping photos of some of his other masterpieces around the country. The photos might not be the best, but try to enjoy them anyway.

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church (1981)

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

Kyungdong Presbyterian Church

The church (official homepage–English and Korean) is a rather funky looking building in Jangchung-dong, not far from Jangchung Stadium and Dongdaemun Market. You need to climb the stairs to the right to reach the entrance, which is rather unusually placed at the rear. From the church homepage:

To enter into the main chapel you have to go through a path called the Meditator’s Walk. It is a long, uphill stairway that allows you to prepare yourself for a set-aside place for worship. For this reason the entrance to the chapel is on the back of the building. While you walk up the stairs, you will see the unevenly broken bricks that form the outer wall of the building. Ecumenism is what it is all about. All the different people of God are called and gathered here to build oikos, God’s church.

The interior is even funkier, although to be honest, I’ve never seen it—the church appears locked except when services are being held.

Tower Hotel (1969)

Tower Hotel

The Tower Hotel harmonizes rather well with the forested hillsides of Mt. Namsan. The main building was designed as a tribute to those nations that fought under the UN flag during the Korean War—there are 17 floors, one for each nation (including South Korea).

Freedom Center (1964)

Korea Freedom League

The headquarters of the Korea Freedom League, it seems to serve mostly as a wedding hall these days. If you want to get married in a Commie-Free Zone, this would be the place to do it. In the background are N Seoul Tower and the National Theater of Korea.

Headquarters of the SPACE Group

Headquarters of Space Group

Well, I’ll let the SPACE group do the talking:

This building is located in the heart of Seoul while manifesting its historical context: the place is crowded with the Korean-traditional-style houses and also with the modern-style structures which symbolize the modernization processes of Korea. In the neighbor, the Changduk Palace (Biwon) stands representing the history and time of Chosun.
The concepts which were attempted in Pompidu Centre such as the idea of human scale’ and organic composition of space are materialized in an increased intensity. The design less emphasizes the concepts of distance, angle, or size than those of closeness, division, continuity: amalgamation, and continuity. The “womb space” is realized here evoking various activities within a confined space. The strands of earthen blocks in varying thicknesses stress the depth of the side of the building. The concept of skip-floor is adopted while maximally compressing the height of a floor in the scale of human height. As coming up the triangular stairs slanted at an angle of 45 degrees, one can experience the unfolding of the multifarious spaces.

Yangdeok Catholic Church (1979)

Yangdeok Catholic Church

This required a road trip to Masan, Gyeongsangnam-do. The church ain’t big, but it gives off a warm, cozy feeling. Like Kyungdong Presbyterian Church in Seoul, it uses red brick and you must climb a set of steps before entering. With a skylight above the altar, the design uses sunlight to great effect.

Jinhae Post Office

Jinhae Post Office

Jinhae Post Office

OK, this has nothing to do with Kim Swoo-geun. The post office was built in 1914 by the Japanese in Russian-style. It was along the way to Masan, so I figured it would be worth a looksie, being as I am into colonial-era architecture. It’s a pretty little building that was probably worth the stop. It would have been even nicer if the Black and White Coffee Shop, which I had read about in OhMyNews the night before, had been open. The Korean-style tea house, or dabang, opened in 1955 and has managed to keep its classic dabang look. Unfortunately, they were closed for the New Year holiday. Bummer.

14 Comments

  1. michael your flag
    Posted January 3, 2007 at 2:42 pm | Permalink

    Great post Mr. Marmot, thanks.

  2. R. Elgin your flag
    Posted January 3, 2007 at 2:56 pm | Permalink

    “In Search of Kim Swoo-geun” . . . Robert, I’ll buy the shovel if you help me dig him up.

    It would take an iron-clad commitment to improving the cityspace and the development of a unique Korean style of architecture, over a period of some years (15-40) before any real change could occur and then a more enlightened mindset of stewardship in the government to keep it that way.

    I note that in Athens, the neo-classical architecture of the 1821-1910~ period was ravaged by the communist-style dictatorship in Greece, during the 1970’s, the result being that the few glorious examples of this style are incredibly expensive and very unique to the city of Athens. The enlightened ruling party that came after the communist stooges saved these fine buildings for posterity and if it were not for them, there would be precious few examples left, if any.

  3. hardyandtiny your flag
    Posted January 3, 2007 at 5:58 pm | Permalink

    At Yangdeok the Lord is raising his hands and saying, “Take that green tinted piece of crap away from the entrance and send it to hell!” Really, someone from SPACE Group should have that silly entrance portico removed and replaced with something more appropriate. I don’t want to say much about the designs but I’d like to know more about the structural engineering of the Tower Hotel.

  4. hardyandtiny your flag
    Posted January 3, 2007 at 6:00 pm | Permalink

    Or maybe it’s the Blessed Mother yelling?

  5. Posted January 3, 2007 at 7:08 pm | Permalink

    I really enjoyed the pictures in this post, Robert. I hope someone can get inside those unusual churches to take some pictures one of these days.

  6. Posted January 3, 2007 at 9:17 pm | Permalink

    Korea is a country in which people commit architecture, and it looks like the crime spree began with Mr. Kim.

  7. Hatch SZ your flag
    Posted January 3, 2007 at 10:14 pm | Permalink

    I do not really see how the Tower hotel harmonizes with the hillside. The other architecture is nice, while the churches (blue awning aside) are quite cool.

    Thanks for the look at somewhat more recent architecture.

  8. Posted January 4, 2007 at 3:18 am | Permalink

    You drove all the way to Masan and back just to take a picture of a church!? That’s dedication!

    Interestingly, Kyungdong Church looks so old, even though it was only built 25 years ago. It must be the effect of ivy-on-bricks….

  9. Posted January 4, 2007 at 3:24 am | Permalink

    I have to say, though, that I agree with Hatch SZ and am unimpressed with the Tower Hotel. Nice sentiment—17 floors and all that—but apart from that, buildings like that are a dime a dozen both inside and outside Korea (it reminds me in particular of one not-particularly-attractive hotel right here in Vancouver, in fact), and the siting doesn’t seem right to me—a tall building on a flat plane surrounded by a parking lot….

    But his churches are interesting.

  10. Posted January 4, 2007 at 12:10 pm | Permalink

    You drove all the way to Masan and back just to take a picture of a church!? That’s dedication!

    Worse—I KTXed it out of Seoul at 5:25 a.m. and then bused it from Busan to Jinhae, and then another bus from Jinhae to Masan. But then again, I live for this sort of shit, and it beats sitting around playing the Xbox 360 on New Year’s.

  11. R. Elgin your flag
    Posted January 4, 2007 at 12:34 pm | Permalink

    Wow, you need a cellphone version of cart rider to play while you are busing about. :o)

  12. red sparrow your flag
    Posted January 4, 2007 at 12:56 pm | Permalink

    I think it’s funny that the Freedom League building is the most communist-inspired piece of architecture in the country, second only perhaps to the National Assembly.

  13. dogbertt your flag
    Posted January 4, 2007 at 12:59 pm | Permalink

    I find it interesting how the “avant garde” Koreans tend to favor non-standard Romanization of their names.

    However, it is also pretentious and irritating.

  14. R. Elgin your flag
    Posted January 5, 2007 at 1:13 pm | Permalink

    Someone posted a link to some modern examples of Korean-inspired architectural design recently; they were almost hanock-style and housed a business. Does anyone remember what the link was?

6 Trackbacks

  1. [...] Robert Koehler from Marmot’s Hole introduces Kim Swoo-geun (1931-86), one of the fathers of Korean modern architecture, to the readers. Oiwan Lam [...]

  2. [...] Jinhae Post Office Share and Enjoy:These icons link to social bookmarking sites where readers can share and discover new web pages. [...]

  3. [...] the greatest architect Korea has produced and one of the few men who would motivate me to travel all the way to Masan to take pictures of a building built after 1945.  The buildings are good examples of Kim [...]

  4. [...] 1970s. In particular, we looked at several works by Korea’s two greatest modern architects, Kim Swoo-geun and Kim [...]

  5. [...] Group, the architectural firm founded by master architect Kim Swoo-geun (about whom you can read here, here and here). Kim designed the old headquarters, the brick building to the left (completed in [...]

  6. [...] Note: As you know, I’m a big fan of Kim Swoo-geun — see here, here and here for photo essays dedicated to his work. Obviously, it saddens me to see any of his [...]

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