The Development of Korean Culture Is A Money Thing?

There is an ongoing movement in Tokyo to stop a large road and the lifting of building heights in Shimokitazawa, a suburb of Tokyo that escaped the bombing of the Second World War. This is relevant to those in Seoul in that have been fighting to save the Hanok and other little parts of Seoul that are historic.To quote the Times:

In cities from New York to Bucharest, the practice of plowing large roads through urban communities has been widely discredited but Tokyo is only just beginning to consider the social costs, after decades of covering its medieval moats and rivers with highways, and replacing tile-roofed dwellings with featureless concrete buildings. “Until now, nobody cared if we destroyed the culture and environment of Tokyo,” said Mikiko Ishikawa, a professor at Keio University here who specializes in urban planning. “People are gradually coming to understand that these things matter, too.”

Many neighborhoods in Seoul have fallen to small developers and owners that simply want to turn their property and green-space into money — often at the expense of what unique character a neighborhood has and air quality, since most trees and grass are paved over. Additionally, as mentioned in the Times Article:

. . . Supporters and opponents alike agree the project is the work of the so-called road tribe. These are politicians who use public works to win votes, and lard their campaign chests with construction-related donations.

This begs comparison to what happens in many places in Korea as well.

Regarding Seoul’s past, it seems almost impossible to recapture how it was, in the past. One current attempt at such is in Insa-dong and the city’s plans to build a five-story shopping mall there, as a means of retaining Insa-dong’s authentic past (believe it or not). This is an excellent example of development masquerading as preservation. The comments to this article at Korea.net are telling:

A five story building with traditional athmosphere..?? Please do not build any multi-story buildings in Insa-dong, you should do the opposite. The area should look traditional with hanok style houses etc. Small is beutiful!!

or:

Another five-story building in Insadong?? Are they crazy? They are ruining the aura of Insadong. Insadong should be about the traditional Korean architecture, and now they are building a mall?? In your article above, the city authorities did not detail their program, because I think they don’t have any program. They don’t seem to know what they are doing. And the bumpy pavements you say? They are part of the scene. Don’t tell me they’re building a highway in there. The city government does not know how to preserve the Korean culture.

or

My family visited Seoul in July. we truly enjoyed shopping and looking around in the tradional markets. please tell the city officials not to destroy the “real Korea” to build just another tourist attraction.

Another interesting twist in Seoul City’s quest to boost “culture” in “concrete-ville” is to build “street galleries”. Naturally, if a private company donates money towards this “development” project, “The city government will also allow advertising copy or company logos on the art works as long as the advertisements do not damage the work’s artistic integrity or detract from public interest.”

Considering such, the message from Seoul City Government seems simple: Money = Korean culture.

11 Comments

  1. Haisan your flag
    Posted October 3, 2006 at 12:04 am | Permalink

    Insa-dong is dead, dead, dead. Has been for quite a while. Nothing left to preserve there. I am far more concerned with the lingering rags of Gahoe-dong and the Samcheong-dong neighborhood(s).

  2. Posted October 3, 2006 at 12:59 am | Permalink

    I haven’t been familiar with Seoul long enough to ever remember what Insa-dong looked like in the past. Since I first visited it over seven years ago, it’s always struck me as little more than a pricey tourist trap. If it was ever something more, it’s too bad it isn’t the way it used to be today.

    Even the tea garden off one of the side streets (I can’t remember the place’s name; it has a 4-character name on its sign over the front gate) seemed like a pleasant place the first time we visited it one spring evening; but when we returned last time during the day, I noticed not the moonlight-in-an-evening-breeze, other-era atmosphere of the old house where the cafe sits, but rather the expensive boutiques and art galleries surrounding the cafe. It was pretty disconcerting.

    I agree with Haisan that if there is any movement afoot to preserve anything in Seoul (apart from the palaces and other “sexy” historical properties), it should be focussed on neighbourhoods that still have some semblance of their old selves.

  3. Posted October 3, 2006 at 1:01 am | Permalink

    I think Haosan is correct insofar as Insadong has evolved/changed/been changed into something quite different from what it once was and in a way that has pretty much obliterated what it functioned as.

    I also think you’ve over-reached in describing the City’s plan as involving a shopping center. It’s a five story “establishment” (they say) with performance venues, a tourist info center, museum and a marketplace for traditional arts and crafts. Moreover, that’s now far off what has been there on and off again for several years. What they should have done is prevented the construction of that crime against architecture and taste put up by the Szzamie guy.

  4. hardyandtiny your flag
    Posted October 3, 2006 at 2:15 am | Permalink

    Thank God for Namsan….

  5. Haisan your flag
    Posted October 3, 2006 at 2:20 am | Permalink

    The Ssamzie building is located where a damn fine galbi-jib used to be. And although I really dislike the new building at least, 1) the owner gave a bunch of really cool people free (or almost free) use of much of the space pre-construction, and 2) the owner is legitimately interesting in improving Korea’s art and music scenes. He put his money down and has tried to make things better, especially with Ssamzie Space in Hongdae (which has kind of fizzled out, but at least he tried).

    I should probably admit, though, I am one of the unhelpful ones. I jealously guard many of my favorite spots, and do not want them swamped with the touristy hordes (foreign or domestic). Not sure if that makes me a hypocrite or a dick or what, but that is how I feel (not always, but often). Let the tourists have Insa-dong and Hongdae and the (faux) palaces. Let the kyopos have Apgujeong and Gangnam and (the faux) Hongdae. I am quite happy with my Korea.

  6. Haisan your flag
    Posted October 3, 2006 at 2:21 am | Permalink

    (I should probably use fewer parentheses (parenthetically speaking)).

  7. Posted October 3, 2006 at 2:25 am | Permalink

    Double or triple priced green tea? Shoddy, off the shelf paintings? A $9 cup of tea? Insadong is washed right out. Whenever I walk through there anymore, I just feel like telling the folk walking down the street that they are better off buying their tourist trinkets anywhere but there…and as for culture is concerned, there is more Korean culture reflected in the jewelry store windows around the corner on Jongno as there is in Insadong.

  8. Posted October 3, 2006 at 3:28 am | Permalink

    …Oh yeah, and since the first time we visited that tea garden, our hosts paid, we didn’t learn until our last visit that on top of all the other disappointments, the tea in question was hopelessly overpriced!

  9. Posted October 3, 2006 at 3:39 am | Permalink

    Like Haisan, I seek out out-of-the-way places, too. I suppose that makes me a snob as well, but sightseeing is simply less stressful when you’re not knocking elbows with a hundred other camera-toting tourists or jostling with busloads of bemused kids on field trips, all trying out their best “Hello!”s. Anyhow, it’s somehow more rewarding finding the more neglected buildings, parks, etc…sometimes, they even seem closer to their past than the gussied-up, high-profile draws like Gyeongbokgung or Namdaemun. For shopping, I’d rather go to a neighbourhood market than Namdaemun, let alone Myeongdong or the department stores. Ditto for restaurants…give me the workaday, hole-in-the-wall sikdangs (as long as the food’s good) over half the restaurants in Gangnam any day (unless someone else is paying! ;) )

  10. montclaire your flag
    Posted October 3, 2006 at 7:10 am | Permalink

    Insadong is to Korean culture as the Cheonggyecheon is to nature.

  11. Posted October 3, 2006 at 9:31 am | Permalink

    During the ten years my family lived in Tokyo during the 1990’s, either as a family or as individuals we would frequent Shimo Kitazawa. The place is like Insadong on steroids BEFORE most recent redevelopment of Insa — and 100 times more hip than any place in Seoul, save possibly Hongdae. What may be different is that a sizeable number of Japanese are organizing a serious resistance movement against the highway. There was only token resistance with Insa five years ago. The end result may be the same. I hope not. But if anyone has not yet been to Shimo Kitazawa, by all means GO the next time you make it to Tokyo. You won’t regret it — or you may be too late.

One Trackback

  1. By L'Ombre de l'Olivier on October 3, 2006 at 4:20 am

    Blogs, Town Planning & Local News…

    The Marmot’s Hole links to a NY Times article about Shomikitazawa, Tokyo which reports on the feeble but slowly growing movement to protest unsightly developments. I think the article is, in many ways, a classic of MSM drive-by reporting because, in ….

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